How To Tape and Float Sheetrock
Finishing sheetrock or drywall is not a new trade but it is not as old as its counterparts: carpentry and plumbing. As a matter of fact, sheetrock made its debut way back in 1916, but it really did not catch on until World War II. Before that, interior walls and ceilings were lathe (wooden strips) and plaster. This process petered out when the war loomed, Uncle Sam needed a faster way to build structures – barracks, office buildings, etc.
Sheetrock was the obvious candidate. This article will show you, the daring DIY'er how to tape and float sheetrock. The terms drywall and sheetrock are used interchangeably in this article, as they are in the trade.
Of course, this is not just for new construction. The homeowner needs this knowledge for the day to day drywall patches that come about from accidents or repairs. Very small repairs such as repairing drywall seams are covered here.
Drywall Tools and Material
Here's a list of tools and material you'll need to tape and float sheetrock or drywall:
- 6” taping knife
- 10” floating knife
- drywall hammer
- screwdriver
- mud pan
- utility knife
- stapler
- electric drill
- ribbon mixer
- sanding pad and pole
- sanding screens
- plastic corner bead
- drywall tape (mesh type, not paper)
- drywall compound (mud)
Go over all the surfaces and make sure that there are no nails or screws above the surface of the drywall. If you find any, hammer the nails or screw in the screws (whichever were used in your home). If there are any other protrusions get rid of them.
All outside corners need corner bead. If at all possible use just one stick per corner. This should be no problem in the average home. If the drywall is ragged, use the utility knife to trim it to a nice, square corner. Then just stick it on the corner and staple it, making sure it is straight.
Mixing the Drywall Compound (Mud)
Buy your mud in the large plastic buckets. The consistency of the mud is a bit too thick to begin with. Open the bucket and pour in a couple of cups of water and thin it out with your drill and ribbon mixer.
Taping the Drywall
Stick tape to all the seams and all inside corners. Do this all at once or as you go. Fill your mud pan about 1/4 of the way full, and using your 6” knife, apply mud to all the seams, inside corners, and nail/screw indentations. All you are doing with the taping step is initial work. Do not leave any ridges of mud because you'll just have to scrape them off prior floating.
Floating the Drywall
Now that the mud has dried, it's time to float the drywall. Use the big knife. The objective here is to cover everything you did before but make the surface as smooth as possible. You won't meet that objective on the first floating. Don't give in to the temptation to just go over it once because “the texture will cover it.” On this pass you go over the tape filling in the void. As before, don't leave any ridges. After the mud dries, float it at least one more time. On this pass you'll be feathering the joints on the sides of the joint (and going over the nails).
Sanding the Sheetrock
Once you're satisfied that your surface is flush and smooth, use the sanding screens to finish it off. Once you're happy with this you can texture. A lot of people fret about this step, but it's really not necessary to have a compressor and a hopper. Several methods are explained in easy drywall texturing techniques.
Kelly Smith - Kelly has over 30 years experience as a journeyman carpenter and 20 as a freelance writer and photographer.
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