Fence construction styles may vary, but generally the components are 8' fence posts (approximately 6' above ground, 2' buried and set in concrete), 2” X 4” top plates, 2” X 4” nailers, and either 1” X 4” or 1” X 6” dog-ear pickets. The posts are generally set 8' on center so that the top plates join at the center of the post top. The nailers are located approximately 1' above the soil and are either toe-nailed between posts or installed using joist hangers.
When fencing a back or front yard, the fence sections usually meet at 90 degree angles. When the section tying into the existing section intersects on a post, the procedure is easy. However, this is not usually the case.
Typically, the intersection happens somewhere between posts so there is an offset where the nailer is if connecting on the non-picket side of the fence. There are various ways to take care of the offset. In the fence repair project depicted in this article, following Hurricane Ike, a simple short length of 2” X 4” stud was added to the nailer.
First, Set the Fence Posts
It's important that the posts are in the proper place and are plumb in both directions. A taut string line run along the front or back edge of the top of the existing posts is the proper guide. In a repair job, some of the original posts will still be standing. If not, the broken-off stumps will be evident and a helper will allow locating the string position using a plumb bob.
Once the string line is in place, it's easy to eyeball where the hole should be dug. The post should be an 8' tall 4” X 4”. All the lumber should be pressure treated (but the pickets themselves may be cedar), galvanized hardware should be used, and exterior grade nails and screws should be used.
On a repair job, when setting fence posts, it's not always possible to follow the 8' between posts because of existing concrete footings from prior posts. In this case, it will be necessary to position the first post less or more than 8' away.
For the repair job illustrated in this article, the terminating post was secured to the existing fence shimmed out from the existing nailer with a short length of 2” X 4” and set on a concrete pad for support due to the difficulty of digging a hole under the fence.
Add the Top Plate and Picket Nailers
Just mark the top of the posts so that the top plate boards meet in the center. Put 2 nails in each plate and angle them in slightly for a tighter purchase. The nailer should fit snugly between the posts and be flush with the post faces on the side of the fence that the picket will be.
This board is installed oriented with the 4” side vertical. This aligns the wood grain in such a way that sag over time is minimized. It can either be toe-nailed in place or installed with modified joist hangers (see photos below).
Install the Pickets
Finally, install the pickets. Run a string line from the top of the pickets on one fence to the top of a picket on the other fence as a height guide. Use a spacer between pickets when nailing them up. This will allow air flow between boards and will help to keep the fence from being blown over in high wind conditions. This is generally not an issue with chain link fences.
A gap of 1/4” to 1/2” is generally acceptable so long as a the local building code or home neighborhood association rules do not dictate otherwise. The first picket hung should be plumbed with a 4' level and subsequent pickets should be checked periodically.
Kelly Smith - Kelly has over 30 years experience as a journeyman carpenter and 20 as a freelance writer and photographer.
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