Residential walls may be framed with metal studs and track, but the most common method by far is wood stud framing. The price for the materials is comparable but steel arguably makes straighter walls, since it won't warp like common pine.
It's always easier to tape and float walls and make them look good in the absence of warping.
Walls Should be Framed to Meet Local Building Code
In most places, the local structural building code specifies either 16” or 24” on center. Obviously, 16” makes for a sturdier structure. In any event, it is important to check before getting started. Drywall, or Sheetrock as it is sometimes called, is available in lengths of 8', 10', and 12'.
The width on the other hand, is always 4'. All these dimensions are deliberate; the width and the various lengths all work with the code-specified framing. Check the wall framing to be sure it's right. It may be necessary to add cripples (short studs) under a kitchen pass-through window, over doorways or case openings, etc.
Drywall Screws or Nails?
This choice is straightforward; with metal studs, use fine-thread drywall screws. Use one within 2” of the joints and about every 8” in the field. With wood stud framing, use either coarse-thread screws or drywall nails.
On ceilings, screws are a better choice because of their superior holding power. When using nails on walls add a “helper nail” within 1” of each nail. All fasteners must be slightly dimpled below paper level without breaking the paper surface.
Hang Drywall on the Ceilings First
The drywall on the ceiling should be installed with the sheets perpendicular to the ceiling joists. This is usually a two-person job although using a drywall lift takes most of the agony out of this overhead job.
Always stagger the joints. To make the best use of material, try to use the drop-offs from one end to start the next one, similar to installing laminate floors or hardwood floors.
Sheetrock the Walls Next
In commercial construction, or when using metal framing, drywall sheets are usually installed standing up. With wood framing, they are laid down. Why? Because, as mentioned above, wood tends to warp, whereas metal will not.
If there is a door or window on the wall, it's important that a joint doesn't land on the corner. If it does, it will crack there sometime in the future, especially on a door. It's annoying to look forward to repairing drywall seams.
Instead, measure back from the center of one of the cripples to the corner of the room, do the math, and decide how to cut the first sheet to begin hanging out of the corner. Shim the sheet 1/2” off the floor and use a 4' level to make sure it's level.
Install the Corner Bead
There are two types of corner bead material commonly found on the market. Galvanized steel is the traditional type, but plastic is gaining in popularity. One thing plastic has going for it is that it won't rust.
Either type may be screwed on prior to taping and floating drywall, but the preferred method for metal is to use a rubber mallet and corner bead crimper. Plastic may be stapled.
To finish up the job, tape and float, texture, and paint.
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