How Cut and Install Baseboards
Baseboard installation is a common trim job in either residential or commercial construction projects. We can wish that the outside and inside corners of interior walls were square and that we could speed the process up by using a table saw to cut all our miters, including baseboards. But wishing will not make it so and the corners of your walls aren't likely to be square. This is why baseboard miters need a custom cut with a coping saw to get that professional look. This article will show you how to cut and install baseboards. These techniques also work with chair rail and crown molding.
A quality coping saw won't set you back much and that's what you need for this project. You can get one for less than $12 at a hardware or home improvement outlet. A coping saw is designed to cut on the pull stroke with teeth pointing in the direction of the handle. This way you have more control for more precise cutting. Many carpenters will fit the blade with the teeth the other way causing it to cut on the pushing stroke. Either way if fine as long as you like it.
A Tool and Material List for Installing Baseboards
- coping saw
- finish nails
- sandpaper
- paintable caulking (if painting)
- wood putty (if opting for the wood's natural color)
- wood files (half round and rat tail)
- hammer and nail set
- baseboard stock
The starting point in mitering the baseboard is a 45 degree angle. You can cut the first piece and then cut and trial-fit the intersecting piece. As we said before, this varies because seldom is any wall corner perfectly square. At times your cut will be a perfect fit right away but usually you'll need a bit of filing or sanding to get a tight fit. If the joint is close to being right, just sand it down on the high areas with sandpaper. If you need to remove a larger bit of wood, put the wood files to work. It might take several trials but that's alright, your coping skills will soon get better (yes, pun intended).
When nailing up your baseboard there's not always a handy stud in place – but that's ok; you can always nail at an angle to the framing's bottom plate. Another tip: avoid nailing into corner bead since you might inadvertently knock off chunks of dried sheetrock mud. If this happens, a bit of taping and floating is an easy fix.
Hammer in the finish nails to within 1/16” of the wood and then use the nail set to sink the nails.
The Three Places to Miter Baseboard
There are generally three common places that require mitering baseboards. The first is inside corners where two intersecting walls meet. Next are outside corners. This is where a wall changes its direction or there is a case opening. Finally, on straight stretches of wall where one board runs out and you must begin with the next one. This joint must also be mitered; no self respecting carpenter butts two lengths of trim together.
At times, because of the the home's layout, there will be corners at odd angles. Here is when your new coping skills will shine.
Wrapping the Job Up
As soon as all the baseboard has been installed, use your caulk or your putty to fill the nail holes and any obvious mis-joins. If properly finished, your joints will stand up to a close inspection.
Kelly Smith - Kelly has over 30 years experience as a journeyman carpenter and 20 as a freelance writer and photographer.
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