Elevators are not a realistic proposal for negotiating two or three floor homes. Dumbwaiters and laundry chutes used to be common but only the staircase has stood the test of time. They can be complexly constructed so they are bound to have maintenance issues.
Residential Staircase Components
Depending on the carpenter who built the staircase and whether architectural software was used in the design, the stair components may vary. But, these are some of the common terms.
- Treads. These are the horizontal components that one steps on. The rear goes under the upper riser and the leading edge is rounded, overhangs the next lower riser and is finished with a “nosing”.
- Risers. These are the vertical components. They set on the lower tread and support the leading edge of the upper tread, just behind the nosing.
- Balusters. Also called spindles since they are often turned on a wood lathe, these are the posts that support the handrail. They fit into the grooved handrail at the top. With “closed-stringer” stairs, they fit into a grooved stringer at the bottom. With “open-stringer” systems, the bottom fits into the tread and is locked in with molding.
- Newel Posts. This is the terminal vertical member at the bottom of the handrail and is usually larger and more ornate than the balusters. When kids slide down the handrail in old movies, this is the thing that stops them. Quickly! And painfully!
- Reinforcing Blocks and Wedges. These are components installed on the underside of the stairs to keep treads and risers tightened up.
Repair Creaking Treads from Underneath
Humidity changes and wear and tear causes the wood components to shift, move, and settle over time and with the seasons. The result is usually creaking, but not a dangerous situation. Ideally, the repairs can be made from under the staircase. This area is usually a powder room, bathroom, closet, or where the Harry Potters of the world are destined to sleep.
Check for loose wedges between the ends of the risers and the treads. Use a mallet to tap them back in snugly. The blocks are not on the edges but in the field, either in the center or equally distanced from the center. These can be glued and screwed back to secure the treads and risers.
Repair Creaking Treads from Above
There are times when the bottom of the stairs is not accessible. In this case, the only thing to do is to work for above. If the leading edge of the tread has separated from the lower riser, it can be screwed down.
If the problem is at the rear of the tread, angle brackets may be used to draw the riser and tread tight. This may be unsightly, though, and may be covered up with carpet or molding.
Replacing Stair Balusters
In closed-stringer systems, these fit into a grooved stringer at the bottom and are separated by spacers. Simply remove the bottom spacer behind the offending baluster to remove and replace it. If the spacer is destroyed in the removal process, fashion a new one.
In open-stringer systems, first remove the restraining molding at the bottom, at the tread. Then remove the handrail spacer in front of the baluster and tap the top of the baluster out (it may be nailed through the handrail).
Kelly Smith - Kelly has over 30 years experience as a journeyman carpenter and 20 as a freelance writer and photographer.
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